Chouara Tannery

The Chouara Tannery, located in the heart of Fes’ medieval medina, has operated since the city’s founding. Today, it is one of the city’s main tourist attractions.

The leather production process relies entirely on manual labor, using techniques dating back to the 11th century. It uses mixtures of chromium, lime, cow urine and pigeon dung to soften and dye hides from cows, sheep, goats and camels. Chromium, a carcinogenic chemical, has been used in the tanning process since the 1800s. It allows for much faster tanning and produces softer, more durable and more easily dyeable leather than traditional methods.

Workers spend hours knee-deep in toxic solutions, exposed to fumes and strong odours often without proper protective equipment. Prolonged exposure leads to chronic health issues, including respiratory diseases, skin disorders and cancer. The tannery discharges untreated wastewater into the Fez River, causing severe environmental damage.

Many visitors purchase leather goods such as bags, slippers, jackets and poufs from the shops overlooking the tannery or elsewhere in the medina. While the leather industry is often deceptively framed as sustainably making use of a byproduct, buying leather actually subsidizes the meat and dairy industries by creating an additional revenue stream.